36 hours in

I’m about to complete the first of my three suits I’m making this year. So far the process has gone much faster than I expected. I was afraid I would be about 80 hours slow but 38 hours in I only have the over collar (bear with me, I do not know the correct term for this), setting the sleves, button holes, buttons, lining and final pressing. I do not expect to make it in 14 hours but it’s not totally impossible. The sad part is if this would be my exam suit I would not pass. First of all, I somehow managed to sew in the breast pocket in the wrong grain. I have NEVER before sewn the breast pocket in in the wrong grain! Didn’t even notice until one of my colleagues pointed it out and now I can’t believe I did not see it before.

I also sew the inner pockets wrong. The edges should be straight, not tilted as mine are. The worst thing is I knew this when I sewed them. In my notes I had written an extra attention note, should be straight, upper side longer than lower side. I pondered about this, even made a stencil in the pockets angel and a straight line upwards to get them straight not tilted. Still they ended up tilted when in place (I sewed them when the facing was not yet attached to the front so I probably thought the grain would be different.

The lining is not straight. I used a striped lining which I had laying in one of my fabric piles, not the smartest if you want to sew quickly but very good to use to see if lining is inserted correctly. Mine is not. On the left side my seam allowance did not cover the arm hole so I had to pull it up leaving the left side crocked. On the hem it does not add up even. The hem line should be a straight line, it is not.
My two fronts have a 1 cm difference! Did not notice this until facing was sewn in. I measured a thousand times when stitching on the front stay tape as I was worried about this moment. The annoying part is that to the 1:st button I have perfectly mirrored lapels but what I had not noticed was that the 1:st button hole on the right side had shifted from my mark when measuring from hem! This fabric is really a living creature of its own. Both good and bad. Bad when things shift but good when you want to hide things and can make the fabric eat mistakes up. This of course resulted in the collar being 1 cm longer on one side as well.
Next step is to finish this beast.

At 36 h many things are done.
Side pockets
Brest pocket
Inner pocket
Canvas mounted and done
Stay tape and facing in place
Front edge stitched
Arms (though not set in sleeves)
Lining is in but not finished
Under collar in place(not finished)
Roll line rolling nicely